Finding Home in a Ger: Discovering Mongolia Through Study and Language
When International Relations student Justine Friedman first encountered the ANU Ger during the Immersia festival, she had no idea it would spark a journey that would take her deep into Mongolia’s culture, landscapes, and living traditions. Mongolia had always been a place she knew little about — despite its enormous historical significance — and the chance to experience it firsthand was irresistible.
She’d already heard glowing reviews of the Modern Mongolia Study Tour, and after attending a CAP information session on short courses, her decision was sealed. “It was something I definitely had to apply for,” she says.
What struck Justine most once she arrived in Mongolia was the warmth of its hospitality. During one breakdown in the middle of the steppe, a nearby family invited the group straight into their ger, offering food, drink, and even a look at their mare-milking routine. “Especially in the countryside, showing hospitality to complete strangers is just part of life. It’s so linked to the nomadic tradition.”
Learning Mongolian — though challenging — became one of the most rewarding parts of the experience. Even small phrases like sain baina uu (hello) and bayarlalaa (thank you) became bridges to connection. She loved discovering cultural symbolism within the language, including seasonal greetings such as “Are you summering well?” (Saikhan zusaj baina uu), which highlight the importance of nature in nomadic life.
The ger, too, became a source of fascination. Staying in different gers gave her insight into nomadic cosmology and values — from the circular opening symbolising the sun to the bright orange door representing fire and light. Etiquette such as stepping over the threshold, walking clockwise, and accepting hosts’ offerings revealed layers of respect embedded in everyday practice.
One of her most memorable experiences came after the Study Tour, during travels through South Gobi Province. Mistaking a family Naadam celebration for a public event, she and her peers feared they had intruded — only to be embraced and included. “They were incredibly eager to teach us about their Naadam traditions. We even watched their own Bokh wrestling match, complete with judges and commentators!”
Witnessing the balance Mongolia attempts to strike between rapid urbanisation and its strong nomadic identity reshaped the way Justine thinks about culture and globalisation. Whether in Ulaanbaatar or rural provinces, she saw immense cultural pride — from children spending summers in the countryside to the national passion for Naadam. “Balancing the old and the new doesn’t mean choosing one,” she reflects. “It’s about finding ways for both to coexist.”
She also quickly realised that many traveller stereotypes about Mongolia fall flat — especially when it comes to food. Yes, meals can be meat- and dairy-heavy, but she found the cuisine “delicious and very diverse,” from buuz and khuushuur to the unforgettable boodog with its hot stones. And in Ulaanbaatar, she encountered a globalised city dotted with Korean convenience stores, Japanese restaurants, Western fast food, and even Irish pubs.
Beyond the cultural immersion, the trip reshaped her approach to learning itself. Fieldwork introduced her to participant observation — the practice of engaging directly with cultural life to understand it — and deepened her belief in respect, humility, and curiosity when engaging with communities. “I learned so much more by being immersed in the culture and community than I ever could have through reading.”
For anyone considering Mongolian Studies at ANU, her message is enthusiastic and clear: “Definitely go for it. The program offers truly once-in-a-lifetime opportunities to experience a fascinating culture and history firsthand.”
