Students also had a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to witness a Yapese Pwo Ceremony led by Grand Master Navigator Ali Haleyalur initiating five Masters—Frank Pedro, Kurt Ngiraked, and Wayne Adelbai of Palau, Keahi Omai from Hawai‘i, and Nick Halishluw of Yap—and two Grandmasters—Sesario Sewralur, son of the famous Mau Piailug from Satawal, and Peia Patai of the Cook Islands, Commander of the Okeanos fleet—into the art of Indigenous navigation. The four-day ritual occurred after the navigators completed a voyage from Aotearoa New Zealand to Palau. There are around 30 master navigators in the Pacific, 20 of whom are from Micronesia and the students interviewed three of the newly initiated for their course assessment. The students got to learn about the traditional social and political structure of the Bai (meeting house), and each made several spines of thatching for the Bai at PCC.
Palau Field School: Learnings of a Lifetime
A two-week, onsite course study in the island country of Palau in July 2019 served as the perfect learning opportunity for 20 Australian National University (ANU) and the University of Hawai’i (UH) students—across different disciplinary backgrounds such as environmental studies, the arts, development studies, international relations and Pacific studies.
ANU-School of Culture, History & Language (CHL) Pacific Studies Associate Professor Katerina Teaiwa and Dr James Viernes, Outreach Director of the Centre for Pacific Islands Studies at UH Manoa (UHM), along with outreach assistant Austin Haleyalpiy and CHL PhD student Talei Mangioni, took the students for an onsite course in Palau focused on gender, culture, environment, political history, tourism and the arts. This was the first time the two universities travelled together for a Pacific field school, and it was significant to have two Indigenous Micronesian scholars from UHM and ANU leading the group.
Through meetings, excursions and activities, the students gained a first-hand and in-depth understanding of why Palau is so passionate about protecting its environment, and how governance and legal frameworks introduced through colonisation are integrated with Indigenous Palauan approaches and values.
Generously hosted by President Patrick Tellei and his staff at Palau Community College (PCC), the students had many unique and enriching experiences during the visit. They were greeted by Palau’s highest ranking woman Bilung Gloria Salii and the Mechesil Belau, prominent women elders who put on a feast of Palauan food and massive display of heritage materials for the group. They also met with activists of the Nuclear Free and Independent Pacific (NFIP) movement, including Elicita Morei, Bernie Keldermans, Ngirmang Moses Uludong, Ebas Santy Asanuma, Kembas Kesolei, and Minister of State Faustina Rehuher-Marugg. Palau is recognised across the NFIP movement in Oceania as a leader in fighting to establish their nuclear-free Constitution, despite the priorities of the United States Government with which they have a Compact of Free Association. It is also well known for the “Palau Pledge”, requiring all visitors to promise to act in an environmentally responsible way on arrival.
One of the highlights of the course was that the students prepared three distinctive cultural dances—Samoan (taught by Hanna Selesele), Bollywood (taught by Tanika Sibal), and Palauan (taught by Austin Haleyalpiy)—and performed these at several gatherings, including the final “Thank You” event for all their hosts. This Pacific approach was important to establishing kinship and cultural rapport in Palau. It was especially critical to ensure the group did not promote a one-directional, extractive approach to learning in country but rather demonstrate respect for, and familiarity with, cultural norms through a practice like dance, which is valued across the Pacific.
The Palau field school experience is a wonderful example of innovation in teaching, showcasing the importance of practical experience in holistic education. Meeting so many distinguished and diverse members of the Palau community, learning about Palau’s political histories and contemporary issues, and discussing critical issues of sovereignty, environmental protection proved to be invaluable and a truly unforgettable experience, gifting the participants with learnings of a lifetime.